Wall-mounted saddle racks: fixing and spacing

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Measure three different spaces

1. Wall space: the usable section after doors, windows, switches and corners.
2. Occupied space: the saddle and accessories on the rack, not just its metal frame.
3. Working space: room for a person to lift down the saddle and turn without catching anything.

Write those measurements separately. It is easy to buy a rack that fits the wall but leaves no useful route past it. The S17's maker-stated 54 cm projection illustrates why depth matters alongside width.

There is no universal fixing height

Village Saddlery warns about lifting a saddle onto an excessively high rack. Choose a position with the people who actually use it. Consider the shortest regular user, the saddle's weight and whether a door opens beside the lifting position. Avoid planning an upper row simply because it fits on a drawing.

Our tack room planner uses an editable gap as a planning assumption. It is not a prescribed clearance. Change the gap to reflect your actual saddle, cover and hands, then test the arrangement in the room.

Before drilling

Give the installer the rack instructions and the proposed position. Check your wall can take the fixing; ask a builder. A masonry wall, timber partition and thin locker panel cannot be assumed to need the same hardware. We do not specify screw sizes or wall plugs without the manufacturer's instructions and knowledge of the substrate.

If the supplier has not published mounting details, request them before purchase. For a rented tack room, agree the work with the yard owner first and keep the installation instructions for future inspection.

For alternative layouts, compare fixed racks and freestanding stands.